Wilma Johnson after spending a decade as an earth mother decides to up sticks with her family and move to the coast of France, where they don't speak the language. Determined to become a surf chick she starts to follow her motto of "out of the kitchen, and into the surf."
This was a brilliant read. Wilma's self-deprecating humour throughout this memoir is fantastic. There's just enough of it.
I love Wilma, I loved how she told her story from surf widow to surf mama. The best parts of the book is when she's out there on the surf, especially battling it out with the men - which seems to not be the done thing.
She doesn't hold back, she doesn't cover her flaws, she just lets it all out and that I find inspiring. She doesn't make out that the moment she hit the waves she was a professional surfer, her broken bones, bruises, aches and pains give fact to that.
It's made me want to grab a wetsuit, a surf board and learn how to surf.
